Today was a rough day. It started out well enough, but the smoke and dust did my lungs in, and by our first tea stop I broke out my emergency inhaler. By our lunch stop the garlic soup turned my stomach. Things I was being terrible about apparently included eating a lot of wheat. The soup was thickened with flour. My stomach had finally rebelled from all the wheat poisoning. Needless to say, this made for a miserable climb to Dingboche, complete with an emergency rock stop.
At least the views were gorgeous. I couldn’t get enough of Ama Dablam (the 100+ pictures of the mountain in my collection are proof!).
The Imja Khola crossings were gorgeous. Well, maybe not the one where we could see a bridge had collapsed. That really didn’t help with my suspension bridge phobia.
I felt a bit better once we arrived, but go too ambitious, and the short walk through town turned my stomach again and dehydration set in.
This was terrible timing – our first night over 14,000 feet, and despite the rehydration salts I never recovered. By the end of dinner I had a full blown AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) headache. Fortunately, it was my only AMS symptom, which made an emergency decent unnecessary. But this meant it was time to break out the diamox and head for bed. The meds let me sleep, but despite drinking another liter of water overnight, the pounding resumed every time I got up. I was nervous about the morning, and terrified I would have to abort my trip.